In heavier soils or in freshly cultivated areas, in order to thoroughly ventilate the soil and increase the work of bacteria, we dig to the depth of two spades, leaving the soil layers at the same level. For this purpose, after making the cover, dig the bottom of the groove to the depth of the spade, by placing the inversion of the furrow slice in the same place. Thus loosening the bottom of the furrow, transfer the top layer of soil to them from the next dug belt, and then loosen the bottom of the newly formed furrow, etc.. By loosening the furrow, we stand at its bottom and kick, moving it backwards, i.e.. we stand perpendicular to the previous position, in which we dig the top layer. Such digging can only be done in the fall once. In the following years, we limit ourselves to digging to the depth of one spade.
The first spring activity of the garden user, who dug it up in the fall, there is a disturbance of the surface of excessively sluggish soil. Thanks to this treatment, the soaking of water and its rapid evaporation from the surface are stopped, and increasing the access of air to the depth, accelerates drying and heating of the soil. On heavier soils, use norkros, leveling the surface with a rake, on light soils it is enough to level the surface with a rake (teeth facing up). For the first time, we rake “roughly”, without trying to perfectly align the surface.
Pre-sowing cultivation begins then, when the soil is dry enough, that it does not stick to tools. If the garden is situated on heavier soils, not very structural (compacted), a necessary procedure is to dig its entire surface, then a thorough rake.
The matter of determining the beds in the garden is debatable. Some prefer cultivation "flat”, because it is easier then to move around the garden, it is more efficient to work with tools and better use of space (there are no paths). Others, however, believe, that in the cultivation of intercrops they could, walking between plants, damaging them, besides trampling the soil, would spoil its structure – therefore advise dividing into lanes with paths. It is best to use both of these methods in our garden, cultivating "flat” larger vegetables (so such, which require greater spacing), how: tomatoes, early potatoes, beans, in the fields and such vegetables, how: onion, radish, lettuce, carrot, parsley, etc..
The bed width is set to 120 cm, so that you can easily reach the center of the bed from both sides of the path when performing any activities, without entering the bed. Track width was set to 30 cm, which is the average length of the foot.
Do not make furrows when forming the beds. Dredging track between beds and creating furrows is only necessary in heavy and wet soils. In this case, the furrow, acting as a drainage groove, has a positive effect on the soil, which dries faster and has air access. On all other soils, on the other hand, dredging the paths is a mistake, because the soil in the beds dries up excessively to the detriment of plants. It is enough to completely tread the path along the stretched rope (the cord stretches every 150 cm).
Immediately after marking out the beds, you should start spreading mineral fertilizers, or to feed individual beds with compost, as described in the previous sections. After covering the fertilizer, the bed is leveled with a rake; it remains in that state until sowing.