CUTTING FRUIT BUSH
Black currants form flower buds and bear fruit on one-year or two-year old shoots, annual shoots grown in the previous growing season bear the best fruit. Therefore, the purpose of cutting these currants is to rejuvenate the bush every year by removing older twigs, which stimulates the plant to produce new shoots.
After planting, black currants are cut in this way, that the shoots above the third or fourth eye are pruned, from the ground. Trimmed bushes should appear at the root at least 3-4 new shoots approx 50 cm, which we do not cut until the fruiting period. After the currants enter the fruiting period, cutting is carried out annually 3-4 the oldest shoots, which are cut close to the ground and the same number of annuals are left in their place. The fruiting bush of the black currant should consist of 8-10 main shoots, the oldest of which should not be more than three years old. It is not recommended to shorten blackcurrant shoots. Only broken twigs should be removed, sick and growing horizontally above the ground and disturbing the cultivation of the soil.
Red and white currants are cut differently than black currants, because they form flower buds and fruit not on annuals, but on shoots, which grow on twigs 2- and 3-year-olds. Twigs of red and white currants live up to 5-8 years, and then they gradually die off. In the second year of life, they break out shoots on these twigs and bear fruit through 3-4 years, growing very slowly. Therefore, we leave the older shoots in the red and white currant bushes, even four years old. In addition, we shorten young shoots, to stimulate them to produce many fruiting short shoots.
Shorten the bushes of these currants planted in autumn by 2/3 length, choosing the best developed (3 do 5). However, if the bushes are very weak and short, thin shoots, then we trim them at the ground, which causes a strong growth of young shoots this year. The following year, in the spring, only shoots that grow too close together will need to be removed, crossing or creeping along the ground. After such "x-ray."” should remain in the bush from 6 do 10 main shoots, which is shortened by 1/3 length.
In the third year after planting, the bushes are again x-rayed, which at that time should consist of 8-10 branched shoots. Shorten by 1/3, and trim the side shoots in height 4-6 mesh. At the same time, very weak and slender shoots growing at the base of the bush are removed. Bushes of red and white currants, already fruiting, it is not cut in winter. However, after harvesting the fruit in late summer, it is removed, in order to rejuvenate the bush, main shoots over 4 years. The shoots are dark gray. They are usually covered with old ones, short shoots and most often bend low to the ground.
Agrest, similar to red currants, creates flower buds on shoots placed on older shoots – 3-, 4-summer twigs. So, similar rules apply here, as when cutting red currant. After the gooseberries enter the fruiting period, the bushes are X-rayed as needed, removing from 3 do 4 the oldest shoots hanging above the ground. In their place, we leave the same number of one-year shoots. Remove the weak annual shoots completely, that they do not thicken the bush, which makes harvesting fruit difficult. We also cut off one-year increments affected by powdery mildew (it is recognized by the brown raid, dense arrangement of buds and a slight curve of the ends).
If we planted a gooseberry, it is in order to form the crown we shorten the main shoot to the middle and tie it to the stake. Side shoots emerge from the eyes below the cut, which will give us the main sprigs of the crown. A year later, we will shorten these shoots by 1 /3, that they branch out. The crown should consist of 6-8 main sprigs. After the gooseberry enters the fruiting period, we proceed in a similar way, as with bushy.
Raspberries bear fruit only on the shoots, which grew during the previous growing season. These shoots die after bearing fruit, they must therefore be removed in the summer. After planting the raspberries it is necessary” trim them at a distance 20 cm from the ground. Shoots grow from the buds at the base of the raspberries, which in the second year after planting the bushes will bear fruit for the first time. Starting in the second year in mid-summer it also cuts out (near the ground) shoots, which were bearing fruit, as they hinder the growth of young shoots erupting from the roots and are a breeding ground for diseases and pests. In summer, one-year-old shoots appearing in the inter-rows should also be cut, to keep narrow, loose line, which will facilitate the cultivation of the soil and prevent the spread of the dangerous disease, known as raspberry shoot dieback. In the spring, leaves from 6 do 8 the healthiest and strongest shoots, cutting down the rest. Selected shoots should be slightly shortened, cutting off the poorly formed apical part.