PLANTING FRUIT TREES AND BUSHES
Fruit trees and shrubs are best planted in October, so that the roots begin to grow before winter. If the autumn is warm, it can be planted until December, but with worse results. Spring planting should be completed in the second half of April, when the plants are not yet developing.
We designate the place for fruit trees and shrubs in accordance with the prepared garden development plan. Planting density depends on the expected crown diameter when the plants are fully grown. Knowing these diameters can help us to better orientate ourselves, which are respectively: apple trees, grusz, Vigorously growing plums and apricots – 4-5 m, semi-dwarf apple trees – 3-4 m, dwarf apple and pear trees – 2-3 m, cherries and peaches – about 3 m, currant and gooseberry bushes have a diameter within 1,5-2 m. Completely grown up: vigorously growing apple and pear trees occupy the surface 15-20 m2, plum and apricot – about 15 m2, half-dwarf apple tree – 12-15 m2, cherry and peach – about 10 m2, apple tree and dwarf pear -4-8 m2. Must be taken into account, that the diameter of the crown depends mainly on the washer, varieties, soil fertility and cutting intensity.
If we plant trees or shrubs in rows, the distance in a row should be this much, how long will it take for the crown diameter after the plants are fully grown. The distance between the rows must be about 1-2 m greater, so that you can move freely, working with trees or shrubs. You can reduce the distance between the rows to 3-4 m, forming lane crowns. In this case, the branches of the trees will grow along the row, however, only small twigs will be directed into the inter-rows. The width of such a row is 1-2 m, depending on how it is conducted (cut).
The distance between the currant and gooseberry rows is 2-2,5 m, if we plant in a row, in space 1,5-2 m. Raspberries are planted every 30-50 cm, in rows separated by 1,5-2 m. Strawberries are planted in a row every 30 cm, leaving between the rows 30 cm. Distance is enough for wild strawberries 20 cm in row and 30 cm between the rows.
By planting on employee plots, one should remember about the regulations established by the Polish Allotment Association, defining the minimum distances from the boundaries of the plot.
We usually prepare the holes for the autumn planting, often before bringing the trees. The work of planting trees is facilitated by the so-called. orchard board (Lynx. 88). It is a flat wooden lath, length 100-140 cm with three notches. Middle, the larger incision is attached to the stake marking the place for the tree. Then two small pegs are stuck into the ground by the two side ones, symmetrically located cuts, which must lie beyond the edge of the well. The next step is to take out the middle stake and dig a hole. By commencing planting a tree, the orchard board is placed again - with side cuts to the left two small pins, and the middle cut to the trunk or the root neck of the planted tree. This method ensures the correct positioning of the tree.
When planting dwarf trees on the M9 rootstock, which breaks off easily or falls over with the roots, we tie them to the stakes. Standard trees and gooseberries as well as currants grafted on golden currants also require strengthening. A strengthening stake must have at least 5 cm thick and such length, to – after sinking into the ground on 40-50 cm – its tip was below the first branches of the crown. The stake is hammered in before the tree is planted, on the west side, at a distance of approx 10 cm from the place, where the trunk is to be. When planting fruit trees and shrubs, do not shorten the roots, and we only cut off broken or damaged ones. If any root does not fit into the dug hole, the hole should be widened at this point, so that the root does not curl. Fruit trees should be planted o 5-10 cm deeper, than they grew in the nursery. Only trees on vegetative rootstocks should not be planted too deeply (basically to the site of budding), lest the noble part take root and "become independent”, losing the effect of a stunted rootstock. In this case, the point of budding on the tree should be above the ground.
Two people should be involved in the planting. One of them keeps the tree in the right position and takes care of the even distribution of the roots, while backfilling the hole, it slightly shakes the tree in order to better fill the gaps between the roots with the soil, and then trampled on with mounded soil. The second person covers the hole. For autumn planting to protect the roots of a freshly planted tree, after the well is completely backfilled, the tree needs to be watered, and then build a mound of approx 30 cm and diameter at the base to 50 cm. When planting trees in spring, instead of a mound, form a bowl around the tree with an internal diameter of at least 40 cm, which facilitates watering the tree. By planting trees or shrubs, especially in spring, they are watered abundantly, that the soil sticks to the roots of the planted plants. Contrary to popular belief, you should not compact the ground with your feet while filling the roots, because then all the tiny roots are torn off.
Currants, gooseberries and raspberries are also planted in a leafless state, preferably in the fall. Currants and gooseberries are planted at least about 10 cm deeper than they grew in the nursery, so that the bush branching was a few centimeters below the soil surface. Too shallowly planted currant and gooseberry bushes have a greater tendency to decompose and break apart.. Raspberries are planted a few centimeters deeper than they grew previously.
Strawberries are best planted in July, but at this time, it is not always possible to get a well-rooted seedling. By planting them at this date, we keep the distances in a row equal to 15-20 cm. After planting strawberries in the second half of summer, in the fall or spring, you cannot count on a normal harvest in the first year. Strawberries are planted less frequently during this period – co 30-40 cm in a row.
Ungrassed wild strawberries are propagated by seeds, usually in inspections. The seedlings are planted at the end of May. The technique of planting shrubs is similar to that of fruit trees. When planting raspberries, the soil must be carefully kneaded, so as not to damage the buds on the roots, from which new shoots are to develop. Also, after planting the bushes, they need to be watered, and definitely strawberries and wild strawberries!