Budding. The date of budding depends on the washer used, the fertility of the soil and the current course of the weather. Most often, inoculation is performed in July - August. This deadline may be extended in hot weather, and in the event of heavy rainfall, it is delayed. For inoculation, rootstocks with a root neck diameter of at least 5-7 mm are suitable.
Before commencing inoculation, the slips should be prepared. Strong slips are suitable, healthy shoots with well-developed buds, the so-called. eyelets. Such meshes are usually found on shoots, on which flowers are already blooming. From the shoots’ leaves are removed for slips, leaving only the petioles long 2 cm. The spines are removed from the scions only before removing the eyelets for inoculation. The cut slips are prevented from drying out, most often by wrapping them in wet material.
The technique of budding is simple, but it takes practice. Three people usually perform budding. One reveals the root collar and cleans it with a piece of cloth, and after seeding it covers the spot with soil again. The second puts on a stitch, and the third binds with raffia or other suitable material.
Usually, we check it after 2-3 weeks, whether the stitches have stuck. If the petiole comes off when you touch the soil when you touch it with your finger, and the eye is green, means, that it caught on. If the mesh is not accepted, we perform the budding process again. As scion we use the same variety or a variety clearly different from the previous one, to avoid unnecessary confusion
In autumn we cover the sprouted roses with soil using a plow or a ridger in order to protect the meshes against freezing.. In the spring, we spread the soil and cut the wild boars just above the pond, and we give full mineral fertilization (2—3 kg ammonium sulphate, 3—4 kg of potassium sulphate, 4—5 kg superfosfatu na ar).
A noble momentum grows out of the eyelet, which should be nipped off 1-2 times over the course of the summer in order to spread it. Careful care and weeding should be used at all times, and in the case of poor growth, additional calcium nitrate should be added at two-weekly intervals 2 kg na ar. The last dose should not be applied later than mid-June.
In the fall, we start digging up the roses. Leaves must be removed before digging. After digging up, we sort the roses for elections: And the choice - a healthy shrub, at least 3 strong shoots and healthy roots; 2nd choice - shrub weaker Fr. 2 or 1 shoot and weaker root system.
Roses are tied in bunches of pp 10 pieces and each time has a permanent label with the name of the variety. The expedition of roses is usually carried out in the fall. All the time after digging out, it is absolutely necessary to protect the roots of the roses from drying out by covering or pitting each time.. Roses left until spring should be dug in pits to a depth of approx 50 cm and protect against frost and precipitation.
Production of stem roses. In the production of stem roses, we use budding not on the root neck, but on the rootstock introduced as a trunk. Depending on the height of the trunk, we distinguish low-growing roses (50—75 cm), half-foams (75—100 cm) and high-growing roses (above 100 cm). When the varieties from the group of climbing varieties are budding, on trunks 140-160 cm high, we obtain pendulous standard roses, otherwise - crying.
The rootstocks for stem roses are also rose seedlings selected from the strongest specimens (neck diameter 8-12 cm). Strong seedlings, dug out in autumn, are re-planted in the nursery with spacing 60 X 20 cm and will be left in place by 2 years. In the second year, abundant fertilization is applied, and in the fall it digs up. After digging up, all branches are removed, leaving only the two strongest shoots.
In spring, after wintering, the weaker one is removed from the rest 2 shoots and all the buds on the root collar, leaving only a small lace on its top.
The wild boars prepared in this way are planted at a distance of 80-100 x 25-30 cm, so that the pivots are directed to one side - which facilitates bending with winter protection. In order to obtain straight trunks, individual shoots are tied to wires stretched along the rows. All emerging side shoots should be carefully cut into the so-called. wedding ring.
Inoculation is carried out in the same way and at the same time as bush roses. In order to obtain an evenly developed crown, two stitches are placed simultaneously on the trunk on both sides. After the eyelet is accepted, the "wild" lace should be cut off, leaving only a 10-12 cm tenon above the budding site to secure the meshes. In the fall, the trunks bend to the ground, balled and covered with soil to protect against frost.
In spring, after discovery, shoots are tied back to the wires, removes the suppository and prevents the knocking out of suckers and wild shoots. In order to induce branching and lace formation, several pinholes are used during the summer.