Exaggeration
The term "transplanting" refers to both the procedure of quilting seedlings in boxes or frames, as well as transplanting or planting individual plants into pots. These treatments are necessary due to the growth and mutual shading of plants and their use, as well as rinsing all readily available nutrients when watering.
Quilting. Young seedlings, Usually sown very densely, as they grow, they shade each other and "stretch out", they also need more and more nutrients, it is therefore necessary to burst them, that is, quilting.
Quilting is a job that requires a lot of skill and patience. They are performed using the so-called. fork (a piece of wood with a flat fork-shaped cutout) and pointed pin, which undermines the roots of individual plants. Then, using the fork, the plant is moved along with the lump of soil into a hole made with a peg in the new place and the soil around the planted plant is lightly kneaded.. Some small plants too densely planted, like lobelia or begonia, during the first quilting, it is not quilted individually, but in small tufts, and only when they grow up, they are interrupted or unpatched individually.
Quilting distances depend on the size and growth rate of the plants.
Before quilting, boxes or an inspection should be prepared in advance, to which the plants are to be quilted. We usually use humus soil for quilting, light - most often a mixture of leaf earth, sand and peat. After quilting the plants, water abundantly using a fine strainer or sprayer, to increase the adhesion of soil clods to the roots, and thus facilitate the uptake of water and food.
Very often, to prevent plants from wilting, after quilting the quilt boxes, place them in a shaded and saturated greenhouse, on the other hand, close the window frames and shade until the seedlings are accepted.
When transplanting older plants, fully grown, with profuse foliage, we do the same, to prevent them from excessive evaporation.
Transplanting plants grown temporarily or permanently in pots. We understand the need for transplanting into larger pots on the base:
a) the appearance of the plant; if the growth rate slows down, leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the soil in the pot dries up too quickly, this shows the need to overdo it;
b) the appearance of the root ball; if, after breaking the lump of earth from the pot, we find out, that it is strongly rooted, i.e.. entwined with roots, the plant must be transplanted.
Young plants are characterized by very intensive growth, therefore we tend to exaggerate them more often, and it's in phase, when the roots begin to intertwine on the surface of the lump.
Keep in mind when transplanting, that the new pot is only 1-2 cm larger than the previous one. Plants transplanted from small to large pots grow very quickly, issuing mostly leaves, as a result, flowering is usually significantly delayed. It happens sometimes, that the plant after transplanting into too large a pot, especially with abundant and inept watering, is unable to use the water supplied to her, and at the same time, when oxygen access is difficult, the roots rot, until the whole plant becomes ill and often dies.
The very act of transplanting should be done quickly and efficiently. Before planting, you need to prepare suitable soil and pots. The soil should always be moderately moist, arranged in heaps on the planting table. Empty pots should be placed on the planter's right side, on the left, the pot with plants for transplanting, and in the center there is a box for pots with already transplanted plants. During the repotting itself, 2-3 workers should be employed for greater efficiency and better use of time, one of which only deals with transplanting, and another replenishes the earth's reserves, flower pots, shells, and brings and brings back the pots of plants.
The technique of transplanting plants is simple. Take the old plant out of the pot by turning it upside down and hitting the table edge several times while supporting the plant from below with your left hand. In turn, from the broken lump, we remove a part of the old soil from between the roots, without exposing them too much. When transplanting old plants, remove overdeveloped tangles of old roots with a sharp knife, while the thick ones are untangled and shortened a little. In plants with a strong tap root, e.g. you dracen, and with fleshy roots, like for example. u palm, we do not remove any roots, because these plants are susceptible to damage. While planting, we hold the plant in our left hand, On the right, we sprinkle soil into the pot. When planting, the roots should not be twisted or tangled, as this makes it much more difficult for the plant to take up. Roots too long (in young plants) best to shorten, by cutting them off with a knife or pinching them with fingernails. At the bottom of the pot, we make drainage of sand and shells above the existing hole, which protects the plant against excessive humidity and flooding. When planting, we fill the pot with soil like this, so that the earth's surface was at 1 cm lower than the edge of the pot.
Older plants are usually replanted once a year, and sometimes even every few years. The best time to transplant potted plants is early spring - February, March, April. It is during this period that plants give up new roots and grow faster. However, it should be noted, that ornamental plants can be replanted all year round with extreme caution.