In winter, the seedlings are kept in a temperate greenhouse, and in the period from April to the end of August, they can be transferred to a warm inspection.
Suckers. Cacti produce small amounts of suckers, but some species develop side shoots (Echinopsis, Echinocactus), which are very poorly attached to the main shoot, and sometimes they take root already on the plant. But many succulents (agave, aloesy, eczewerie) they produce a large amount of regrowth. Suckers, which have developed roots already at the mother plant, we can plant into pots immediately after removal. Unrooted suckers are cut off with a sharp knife at the point of attachment perpendicular to the shoot and treated as cuttings.
Seedlings. Cut off the side shoot on the cuttings with a sharp knife, the tip of the shoot or the wart. The cut plane must be as small and smooth as possible. The base of thick shoots is cut obliquely at a height of approx 1 cm. The prepared cactus seedlings are left in the air in a place sheltered from the sun for several days, and the cutting plane in succulents is recommended to sprinkle with powdered charcoal, after which the cuttings are placed individually in pots or in batches in boxes filled with sand or a mixture of sand and peat. The seedlings are placed shallowly, and as needed (larger episodes) stands around with sticks, so that they do not fall over.
Period is the most appropriate time to plant, when the mother plants are fully developed, i.e.. from May to August. The rate of rooting depends on temperature and humidity. Higher temperature and a warm underside favor the development of the roots. Multiplier tables, on which the seedlings are located, we cover with windows. We water very moderately.
Vaccination. It is used in the reproduction of these species, whose cuttings do not take root (comb forms), grow badly on their own roots (some cereuses) or for original forms (zygocactus na peireskii).
For vaccination, both for slips and for pads, healthy plants should be chosen, firm and juicy. This procedure is performed from May to August. If the rootstock and the scion are small in size, usually it is grafted into a wedge, if the cross-section of shoots is large and of the same diameter, the scion cut perpendicular to the shoot should be placed on a similarly cut rootstock. If any of the components has a larger diameter, cut the shoot diagonally at a height of 1-1.5 cm in this way, that the sections are the same. Vaccination must be done quickly so that the cut surfaces do not dry out. When grafting into a wedge, the rootstock is attached to the rootstock by piercing it jointly with a spike, and in the second method, the components are tied with cotton or a soft string. We put the vaccinated plants in a warm greenhouse, where they heal after a few days.
Further cultivation
Exaggeration. The best time to transplant cacti and succulents is when they begin to grow, i.e.. march or april. Of course, this does not apply to flowering plants. The seedlings are transplanted every year, larger and healthy plants every 2-3 years. On two, three days before transplanting cacti, no watering is done, with the exception of zygocactus and epiphilum. The old soil is removed completely. At the bottom of the vessel we put a layer of drainage from shells or coarse washed gravel, and then the earth. Various mixtures of earth are suitable. Most species will thrive in a mix consisting of 3 parts of sandy loam soil, 1 some leaf earth and some charcoal. For zygocactus and epiphilium, we use soil rich in humus, so leafy with the addition of sand.
For most succulents, especially the elderly, frame soil or compost soil with sand is used.
The freshly transplanted plants are watered after 2-3 days.
Beauty treatments. The most important care treatments include proper watering and maintaining the right temperature. Both of these treatments depend on the humidity of the air, light intensity, insolation, temperature and seasons. Water the plants abundantly starting in spring, on very sunny days, shade and spray. When young shoots stop developing, we stop shading and gradually get them used to full sun. If the solar operation is too strong, the shoots often turn reddish-brown in color. At the end of August, we reduce watering. In winter, the most suitable temperature is 8-10 °. In these conditions, it is enough, when the plants will be watered once a week or even less frequently. If, on the other hand, the room temperature is too high and the air humidity is low, the plants may perish as a result of too eager drying, although they are resistant to the lack of water.