Proceed in a similar way when cutting and forming pear crowns, like cutting an apple tree, i.e.. we avoid strong pruning of young trees, so as not to delay their fruiting, and after the trees enter the fruiting period, we X-ray the crowns quite intensively, almost like an apple tree.
When starting the formation of a double-decker crown, in the first or second year after planting, choose approx 5 the strongest side shoots, forming wide angles with the guide and we allocate them to the branches of the tree. Selected shoots should be shortened by 1/3 do 2/3 length yes, so that the longest ones do not exceed after cutting 40 cm. We remove all unnecessary shoots. Trim the tree guide at a distance 40 cm from the highest twig. In the second or third year after planting, try to form the second tier of branches approx 40 cm from the first floor. As in the first year, we leave from 3 do 5 side shoots, which grew up on the guide and we abbreviate them by 1/3. The method of forming a pear tree's crown is shown in the figure.
The method of forming the crown of a multi-storey pear tree: a) the first year of crown formation, the guide left behind and 3-5 side shoots; b) the second year of crown formation. We remove the shoots forming sharp angles with the conductor and shorten the remaining shoots; c) the third year of formation of the double-tier crown. You can remove the conductor above the last bough I before cutting, II – after cutting (the cut places are marked with dashes).
As the branches of young pear trees usually grow vertically upwards, producing few small fruiting shoots, they must be bent or cut appropriately – by shortening the vertical branch above the lateral shoot growing to the side and directed towards the outside of the crown.
After planting, prune the cherries in the same way as the natural apple tree, leaving the guide and from 3 do 5 side shoots at large intervals on the trunk. Trim the guide at a distance 50 cm from the highest twig. In the second year, shoots are thinned as needed, which break out of the guide. In the first years after planting cherries, which usually only release 3-4 side shoots, overexposure of them is avoided, while the annual shoots are shortened, which stimulates them to branch out. After shaping is completed, only damaged branches are cut out, sick or cold.
The formation of the crowns of plums and apricots is similar. Young trees of these species are cut very poorly, giving them a natural form. In the first year after planting, at spring, trees should be cut in this way, so that the crown is seated right or at most 40 cm above the ground. We choose no more than 5 side shoots on the boughs. The handler is pruned just above the side shoots, which is shortened by half. In the second year after planting and in the following years, we pay attention to it, that all the branches grow evenly and that the crown takes a wide shape. Strong shoots growing vertically upwards must be bent and tied with strings to the trunk. Branches that grow too strongly should be shortened over one of the side twigs. Every spring, we inspect the tree crowns and cut out broken twigs, diseased and crossing with each other or growing to the center of the crown.
After the plums enter the fruiting period, they should be X-rayed quite intensively, removing some of the branches from the center of the crown every year, which overlap and overshadow the inside of the crown excessively.
Apricots usually do not require x-raying, therefore we only remove frozen branches (in May) all the way to a healthy place. Cherries, especially the Lutówka variety, require a strong cut. They use a natural crown; seated at a height 30-50 cm. In the first year after planting, we leave it in the crown 5-7 side shoots and guide, removing only these shoots, that grow at an acute angle or are close to the ground. We shorten the guide and side shoots by 1/3, by making cuts over the eye on the underside of the shoot. In the next two years, the next side shoots are allocated to the boughs, so that in the future the crown would consist of approximately 10 boughs embedded at 10-15 cm. After molding is complete, we inspect the crowns annually and cut out as needed 2 or 3 larger branches from the center of the tree, avoiding cutting small twigs and one-year increments.
It is best to form a natural crown in peaches, set just above the ground. Molding only takes two years. In the first year, we leave the guide and 4 symmetrically distributed side shoots, the lowest of which should be a few centimeters above the ground. The left side shoots are cut very short, upper to 2-3 mesh, and the bottom to 4-6 mesh, counting from place, where the crown is to begin. Selected side shoots should be at a distance 15-20 cm apart. The diagram of the formation of a bushy crown in peaches is shown in the figure.
Scheme of the formation of a bushy crown in a peach: a) first year of formation – we cut off 3/4 shoots; b) second year, I – before cutting, II – after cutting
Having a crown formed, every spring we shorten the twigs, which bore fruit strongly, at the root, leaving only one young and strong growth below the pruning point. This increase (momentum) we shorten over again 8-10 three buds. We use this method of cutting every year, thanks to which we have constantly young shoots capable of fruiting on the branches. Every few years, if the crown grows too much, you can shorten the tops of the branches.